Handloom

 

 

To the rural population of the North Eastern region of India, handloom forms an essential part of their everyday life. In the beauty and excellence of a variety of handloom products produced by succeeding generations of weavers have reflected the creative urge, aesthetic sense and hopes and aspirations of the people.

 

Handlooms, as rich village industries, were originally being practiced in the region as hereditary occupation. Some of the handloom products, which are known for their excellent craftsmanship are - carpets of Arunachal Pradesh, muga silk products of Assam, lashingphee of Manipur, shawls of Nagaland and Mizoram.

 

Other common handloom products such as bed sheets, chaddar, scarf, jackets are found in almost all the States of the region.

 

Another interesting fact is that it is mostly the womenfolk, who are engaged in these occupations. Mahatma Gandhi at the time of his first visit to the then erstwhile Assam, having seen the womenfolk on looms, reported to have remarked 'Assam women weave their dreams in their fabrics'.

 

The peculiar designs, distinctive patterns and colourful texture of the hand made wares are also an eloquent testimony to the life and the rich cultural variety as the people of this region. It may be mentioned here that the 'handloom & textile' sector has also engaged co-operative societies for its management etc. Skilled labour in this sector is largely available in most of the districts of this region. Private channels, Govt. agencies and NGOs as well as the Co-operatives share the existing market support system.

 

Whether the looms consume locally produced yarn or yarn produced from outside, what are the type-specific numbers of training and production centers, what is the district specific volume of yarn consumption, cloth production - all such answers have been tabled for each in our state wise section.

 

Since time immemorial, handloom industry has been playing a significant role in the economy of India. It is by far the largest unorganized industry next to agriculture in terms of employment generation. About 58 percent weavers are under the fold of cooperatives. At the beginning of the present decade handlooms accounted 27 percent of all textiles production and 21 percent of textiles exports. Handloom industry has been playing an important role in meeting the domestic as well as a source of economy for the people of the region.

 

The North Eastern Region has the highest concentration of Handlooms in the country. Out of 25.4 lakh units engaged in handloom activities, 14.6 lakh units (household and non-house hold) are in five States – Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Nagaland and Tripura (Source: Handloom census 1995-96). Over 53% of looms in the country and more than 50% of weavers belong to North Eastern States. The share of these five States of North Eastern Region in the domestic looms is 82%. However, only 13.4% of the commercial looms of the country are in those States and the contribution of those States in total production of handloom fabrics is merely 20%. Keeping in view the potential of the region, it was decided to upgrade the Weavers’ Service Centre, Guwahati to Regional Design Centre in pursuance of the recommendations of the Conference of the State Ministers (Handlooms) of North Eastern States held on September 21-22, 2000. It is now functioning as a Nodal Centre for design development and dissemination of designs to the weavers of the region. The Centre has set up a website which includes a museum of Northeastern designs. The web site has been linked with the National Centre for Textile Design, for the benefit of the user agencies. It will also help link all those connected with the handloom industry. The Regional Weavers’ Service Centre imparts training to the weavers in and outside the cooperative fold under Decentralized Training Programme and Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana for providing value addition to the fabrics. A special dispensation has been made under the Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana for the North Eastern States, Sikkim, Jammu & Kashmir, Uttaranchal and Himachal Pradesh. The grant portion of some of the components of the scheme is shared between Central and State Governments for North Eastern States, Sikkim, and Jammu & Kashmir in the ratio of 90:10, except marketing incentive, which is in the ratio 50:50. Further, transport subsidy is extended to handloom agencies of North Eastern States, Sikkim, and Jammu & Kashmir to facilitate marketing of handloom products in other parts of the Country and strengthen backward linkages in terms of more employment opportunities.

 

State-wise Number of Handloom Weavers (Including Allied Workers) in NER, (2009-2010):

 

States Weavers and Allied Workers
Arunachal Pradesh 33041
Assam 1643453
Manipur 218753
Mizoram 43528
Meghalaya 13612
Nagaland 66490
Sikkim 568
Tripura 137177
India 4293517

Note : Figures are provisional.

Source : Rajya Sabha Unstarred Question No. 3247, dated on 08.12.2010.

 

State/Location-wise Number of Total Handloom Workers by Age Group in NER, (2009-2010):

 

States Location Total Workforce (All Ages) <18 Years 18 Years and Above

Arunachal Pradesh

Rural

30252

3248

27004

Urban

2789

227

2562

Total

33041

3475

29566

Assam

Rural

1616902

157762

1459140

Urban

26551

1827

24724

Total

1643453

159589

1483864

Manipur

Rural

184088

11780

172308

Urban

34665

2654

32011

Total

218753

14434

204319

Meghalaya

Rural

13612

687

12925

Urban

-

-

-

Total

13612

687

12925

Mizoram

Rural

33591

1230

32361

Urban

9937

1109

8828

Total

43528

2339

41189

Nagaland

Rural

65884

1164

64720

Urban

606

23

583

Total

66490

1187

65303

Sikkim

Rural

568

17

551

Urban

-

-

-

Total

568

17

551

Tripura

Rural

136106

5328

130778

Urban

1071

107

964

Total

137177

5435

131742

India Rural 3633156 400931 3232225
Urban 698720 84110 614610
Total 4331876 485041 3846835

Source : Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.

 

State/Location-wise Number of Handloom Worker Households by Type in NER, (2009-2010):

 

States Location Total Households Weaver Households Allied Households Others*

Arunachal Pradesh

Rural

27312

21291

3049

2972

Urban

3031

1853

464

714

Total

30343

23144

3513

3686

Assam

Rural

1220025

1078629

48786

92610

Urban

20792

17650

1134

2008

Total

1240817

1096279

49920

94618

Manipur

Rural

151112

149303

516

1293

Urban

27863

26674

897

292

Total

178975

175977

1413

1585

Meghalaya

Rural

11400

10800

191

409

Urban

-

-

-

-

Total

11400

10800

191

409

Mizoram

Rural

31446

31053

381

12

Urban

8053

7878

168

7

Total

39499

38931

549

19

Nagaland

Rural

60362

42196

16134

2032

Urban

529

383

143

3

Total

60891

42579

16277

2035

Sikkim

Rural

568

534

7

27

Urban

-

-

-

-

Total

568

534

7

27

Tripura

Rural

119779

117952

674

1153

Urban

873

756

37

80

Total

120652

118708

711

1233

Note : * : Includes idle loom households and households with no adult workers.
Source : Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.

 

State/Location-wise Number of Handloom Worker Households by Religion in NER, (2009-2010):

 

States Location Hindu Muslims Sikhs Christians Buddhists Others All Religion

Arunachal Pradesh

Rural

13680

65

14

2654

8941

1958

27312

Urban

1173

16

4

190

1443

205

3031

Total

14853

81

18

2844

10384

2163

30343

Assam

Rural

1111291

93146

392

13400

1073

723

1220025

Urban

20223

454

4

105

0

6

20792

Total

1131514

93600

396

13505

1073

729

1240817

Manipur

Rural

98839

7019

54

38808

41

6351

151112

Urban

25033

1606

2

443

3

776

27863

Total

123872

8625

56

39251

44

7127

178975

Meghalaya

Rural

10924

6

2

386

82

0

11400

Urban

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Total

10924

6

2

386

82

0

11400

Mizoram

Rural

52

53

108

27161

4037

35

31446

Urban

5

2

14

7871

151

10

8053

Total

57

55

122

35032

4188

45

39499

Nagaland

Rural

732

109

114

59297

100

10

60362

Urban

2

0

1

525

1

0

529

Total

734

109

115

59822

101

10

60891

Sikkim

Rural

244

0

0

26

292

6

568

Urban

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Total

244

0

0

26

292

6

568

Tripura

Rural

102645

454

149

8972

7465

94

119779

Urban

843

9

0

20

1

0

873

Total

103488

463

149

8992

7466

94

120652

Source : Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.

 

State/Location-wise Number of Handloom Workers Engaged in Allied Activities by Social Group in NER, (2009-2010):

 

States Location Schedule Castes (SCs) Schedule Tribes (STs) Other Backward Castes (OBCs) Others Total Workers

Arunachal Pradesh

Rural

85

2543

179

415

3222

Urban

21

268

65

118

472

Total

106

2811

244

533

3694

Assam

Rural

8337

13162

31237

27587

80323

Urban

468

74

531

1068

2141

Total

8805

13236

31768

28655

82464

Manipur

Rural

28

339

814

1249

2430

Urban

31

4

193

1054

1282

Total

59

343

1007

2303

3712

Meghalaya

Rural

8

297

3

0

308

Urban

-

-

-

-

-

Total

8

297

3

0

308

Mizoram

Rural

1

558

0

1

560

Urban

0

347

0

2

349

Total

1

905

0

3

909

Nagaland

Rural

96

18945

85

130

19256

Urban

0

172

0

0

172

Total

96

19117

85

130

19428

Sikkim

Rural

0

3

5

2

10

Urban

-

-

-

-

-

Total

0

3

5

2

10

Tripura

Rural

80

594

699

119

1492

Urban

22

0

20

32

74

Total

102

594

719

151

1566

Source : Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India

 

State-wise Number of Weavers Covered under Various Schemes of Handloom Sector in NER, (2008-2009):

 

State

Weavers Covered

Arunachal Pradesh

20710

Assam

578671

Manipur

108213

Meghalaya

39888

Mizoram

11487

Nagaland

108127

Sikkim

1948

Tripura

46858

Source : Lok Sabha Starred Question No. 297, dated on 23.07.2009.

 

Distribution of Handloom in Northeastern Region:

 

States

Working looms

Idle looms

Total looms

Arunachal Pradesh

45,060

456

45156

Assam

12,98,731

1,10,437

14,09,168

Manipur

2,66,915

3,346

2,70,261

Meghalaya

7,783

418

8, 201

Mizoram

14,388

9,406

23,794

Nagaland

71,636

5,867

77,503

Tripura

1,16,659

2,413

1,19,072

Total

18,21,172

1,32,343

19,53,515

Source: Census of Handloom in India

 

Item-wise monthly Production of Handloom Textiles:

(in ‘000 meters)

States

Dhoti

Lungi

Saree

Dress materials

Bed sheets

Shawl

Others

Export verities

Total

Arunachal Pradesh

2.5

33.4

-

155.9

20.0

10.2

283.0

.3

505.3

Assam

1469.4

585.5

758.5

870.3

480.5

56.6

6906.7

.9

11128.4

Manipur

3.4

262.7

15.7

18.3

41.4

303.6

5755.4

4.3

6664.8

Meghalaya

5.2

20.7

4.8

16.9

35.7

4.5

76.9

-

164.7

Mizoram

-

.3

-

6

1.4

2.4

106.1

-

110.8

Nagaland

-

188.0

-

-

0.9

592.1

49.1

0.9

831.0

Tripura

71.3

151.4

1228.3

-

82.5

-

1410.8

-

2944.3

Total

1551.8

1142.0

2007.3

1062.0

1022.4

969.4

14588.0

6.4

22349.3

Source: Census of Handloom in India

 

Productivity per loom in Northeastern Region:

 

States

Production of cloths Per loom day ( in meter )

Arunachal Pradesh

1.26

Assam

0.63

Manipur

1.86

Meghalaya

1.58

Mizoram

0.22

Nagaland

1.21

Tripura

2.30

Source: Census of Handloom in India

 

Working status of full time Handloom weavers in Northeastern Region:

 

States

Independent weavers

Weavers under coop fold

Others

Total

Arunachal Pradesh

114

-

429

545

Assam

326445

22568

35249

384262

Manipur

103117

305

3636

107148

Meghalaya

463

10

7

480

Mizoram

1878

2

194

1074

Nagaland

22549

-

4350

26899

Tripura

5983

431

802

17216

Total

470549

23406

44667

538624

Source: Census of Handloom in India

 

State-wise Indicative Number of Handloom Clusters (Proposed) in Northeastern Region (2010-2011):

 

States Indicative Number of Clusters

Arunachal Pradesh

4

Assam

12

Manipur

6

Meghalaya

1

Mizoram

2

Nagaland

6

Sikkim

-

Tripura 6
India 120

- Not Available

Source : Lok Sabha Unstarred Question No. 2716, dated on 25.11.2010.

 

State-wise Financial Assistance to Handloom Sector under Various Handloom Plan Schemes in NER, (2005-2006 to 2009-2010):

(Rs. in Crore)

States

Handloom

Marketing Promotion Programme

MEP *

DDHPY **

Workshed-cum Housing Scheme

IHDS ***

Weavers Welfare Schemes

Export Scheme

Health Package Scheme

2005-

06

2006-

07

2005-

06

2006-

07

2007-

08

2008-

09

2009-

10

2005-

06

2006-

07

2005-

06

2006-

07

2007-

08

2008-

09

2009-

10

2005-

06

2006-

07

Arunachal Pradesh

-

-

0.02

0.04

0.03

0.02

 

0

0

2.18

0.74

1.5

3.21

 

1.77

0.41

Assam

-

0.17

1.76

2.71

1.43

2.1

0.15

0.11

2.02

1.72

0.2

7.85

3.12

0.06

0.49

1.06

Manipur

0.05

-

0.03

0

0.1

0.35

 

2.48

0.23

1.58

2.08

6.02

2.86

 

0.72

0.51

Meghalaya

-

-

0.05

0.03

0.17

0.06

 

0

0

0.2

-

0.83

0.55

 

0.02

0.41

Mizoram

-

-

0.12

0.01

0.51

0.34

 

0

0.12

0.13

-

0

0

 

-

-

Nagaland

-

0

0.42

0.49

0.87

2.06

0.34

8.71

4.63

2.48

2.48

1.94

2.43

 

0.79

2.59

Sikkim

-

-

0

0.02

0.04

0.03

 

0

0

-

-

0

0.37

 

-

-

Tripura

-

-

0

0.04

0.04

0.09

 

0

0

0.32

-

1.36

1.28

 

-

0.01

Note : * : Marketing & Export Promotion Scheme.
** : Deen-Dayal Hathkargha Protshan Youjana.
*** : Integrated Handloom Development Scheme.
Source : Lok Sabha Unstarred Question No. 170, dated 20.10.2008.
              Lok Sabha Unstarred Question No. 4531, dated 06.08.2009.

 

State-wise Financial Assistance to Handloom Sector under Various Handloom Plan and Non-Plan Schemes in Meghalaya, (2007-2008 to 2010-2011):

(Rs. in Crore)

States Plan Non-Plan
Integrated Handloom Development Scheme Marketing & Export Promotion Scheme Implementation of the HL (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act 1985 10% Special Rebate
2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10

Arunachal Pradesh

1.50

3.21

1.76

1.28

0.03

0.02

0.00

1.74

-

-

-

-

0.05

0

0.00

Assam

7.85

3.12

4.54

7.54

1.43

2.1

4.11

3.76

-

-

-

-

0

6.4

0.03

Manipur

6.02

2.86

0.00

5.09

0.1

0.35

0.47

0.71

-

-

-

-

0.89

0

0.00

Meghalya

0.83

0.55

3.42

1.88

0.17

0.06

0.89

0.27

-

-

-

-

0

0

0.00

Mizoram

0.00

0.00

0.90

0.16

0.51

0.34

0.00

0.00

-

-

-

-

0

0

0.00

Nagaland

1.94

2.43

10.58

6.55

0.87

2.06

3.73

2.10

-

-

-

-

1.89

2.31

3.47

Sikkim

0.00

0.37

0.00

0.47

0.04

0.03

0.04

0.13

-

-

-

-

0

0

0.00

Tripura

1.36

1.28

0.85

1.85

0.04

0.09

0.36

0.44

-

-

-

-

0.2

0

0.00

Source : Rajya Sabha Unstarred Question No. 374, dated on 29.07.2009. & 
            Lok Sabha Unstarred Question No. 706, dated on 25.02.2011.

 

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